There’s plenty of advice when it comes to traveling with your RV. Here are five big ones to watch out for and and at least be aware of when you’re out on the road — and at your campsite.

The RV life is wonderful! Whether you’re a full timer, going on a long vacation, or getting away for the weekend, using your RV opens up new places, new opportunities, and new experiences. Here’s five thing to look out for when you’re RVing.

Be careful where you travel

Sometimes, your GPS will send you down a road that is nearly impossible to turnaround on. That GPS is good to reference where you need to be, but there’s no replacement for a motor carrier atlas (you can get it at any truck stop).

It’s a good idea to “zoom in” on your GPS as you get closer to your destination. You can see what’s ahead and make adjustments before you get into trouble.

Keep gassed up

Especially if you’re unfamiliar with where you’ll be traveling to, it’s a good idea to keep your gas tanks topped off. This is especially important if your vehicle (or tow vehicle) runs on diesel fuel.

The app, gas Buddy, is a great tool to discover where the best-priced gas is near you (or where you’ll be) as well as reviews on specific gas stations (ease of getting into, hidden secrets like free overnight parking, etc.).

But don’t take the top off!

While we’re on the topic of gas stations, make sure you can easily maneuver into and out of whatever gas station your using. We’ve seen some that look like they’d be easy to get into, but high traffic all of sudden trapped us or we were just too big and caused confusion with other vehicles.

Some stations, especially older ones, will have obstacles in the way, tight corners, and even low overhangs. If you travel with a copilot, make sure he or she is looking ahead and helping you to avoid any problems at the station.

Communicate, communicate, communicate

If you travel with a copilot, realize that things can get tense at times. This is especially true when things go wrong (like getting lost or getting into a problem situation), when you’re in an unfamiliar place, or when you’re doing something you haven’t done before or not a lot of (like backing into a campsite).

Be sure to communicate with each other, but realize that the situations you get into when traveling are extreme and that many times, no one’s fault. Just calm down, have a good attitude, and communicate.

Keep those holding tanks valves closed

Make sure you never keep your black tank release valve open. Doing so is only asking for problems: liquid will seep out of the tank, leaving solid waste behind which will start to clog up your tank, the plumbing pipes in your RV, and even the flexible waste hose that goes from your RV to the waste disposal hole in the ground.

A lot of RVers leave their gray tank release valves open. We recommend that you do not do this for the same reasons you don’t leave your black tank release valve open: While what’s in your gray tank is mostly liquid, food particles, globs of grease or soap, and other particulates can drop into tank corners or pipe bends and start to break down, creating horrible smells.

No one likes odors in their RV. The small space and reduced ventilation can concentrate odors and make them unbearable at times. Find out what you can do.

There are many causes of bad odors in RVs. Even just things like dirty laundry, pets, and even cooking can cause odors that are hard to live with. Here are some causes and what to do about them:

Cooking odors

Food can be a big cause of odors in your RV. It’s also one of the easiest causes to control and eliminate. One very obvious way to combat odors from cooking is to use your RV’s range exhaust fan over the cooking area. It took us about a year (!) to figure out that there is a lockable flap on the outside of our RV exhaust vent, which had been locked close all that time! So make sure that that is open if you have one.

You will also need to clean your exhaust hood fan filter at least once a year. This can collect greases and other smoke byproducts, resulting in bad odors if not regularly cared for.

Other food odors

A trash can that hasn’t been emptied in a while or has been sitting around (especially in hotter weather) can also be the culprit of odors in your RV. It’s a good idea to check this; you’ll know right away if that is the problem. Don’t forget any other trashcans, like in your bathroom or bedroom area. You may wish to spray the inside of your trashcan with something like Fresh Wave Odor Removing Spray. We’re big fans of it!

Your refrigerator can be a source of odors as well. It’s easy to forget last week’s leftovers or something you brought home from eating out a while ago. Make sure you do a purge of your fridge regularly and even a quarterly wipe down. Your freezer can also harbor some bad odors, but this is much less common. NonScents Refrigerator Deodorizer is a great addition to both your fridge and freezer to absorb and control food odors.

Smoking odors

If you or someone in your RV smokes, it can be very difficult to get rid of those odors. Given that the typical RV has pretty small windows, tends to stay pretty tightly sealed, and there’s little way to generate any sort of cross-breeze, odors from tobacco or other products can linger for some time.

Using ceiling vents can help to remove smoke from your RV, and a product like Fresh Wave Continuous Release Odor Removing Gel can help absorb these types of odors.

Water-related odors

Believe it or not, but water can also be a bit cause of odors. Mold and mildew are the main culprits and can present severe health concerns with prolonged exposure. Make sure that your fresh water holding tank is sanitized with some frequency. We recommend once per quarter for full-timers and twice per year for everyone else.

Make sure that you inspect your RV’s roof during your annual maintenance. This is especially important if your RV is stored outside. Repair any seals as needed and if you do find a leak, address it immediately to prevent mold and mildew from growing.

Pet odors

If you travel or live with pets in your RV, doubtless you’re aware of the odors that can result. Often times, cat owners will find little “surprises” in out of the way places, especially if the cat is new to the RV. Seek out these and make sure to use a pet-friendly stain and odor remover, like Ecos Stain and Odor Remover.

Obviously, keeping your outdoor pet’s feet and fur clean, regular grooming and baths, and cleaning a cat’s litter box regularly are all good practices to keep odors down in your RV.

Holding tank and plumbing odors

These are big ones. First, your RV’s plumbing system, though similar to a stick-and-brick’s home waste system, it is not exactly the same. Your RV holds waste in your black and gray holding tanks until they are emptied. Until that time, there is a possibility that gasses and odors can seep up into your RV.

Of course, most RV’s plumbing systems have traps or filters to prevent this. But especially dirty holding tanks can generate a lot of odors. It’s a good idea to have your holding tanks professionally cleaned periodically. Our partner, Kleen Tank, and its sister All Pro Water Flow companies can visit your RV and clean your holding tanks onsite. It’s truly the only way to keep your holding tanks “factory clean.”

When you need an extra heat boost in your RV during cold or chilly weather, a propane heater is a great idea. Just follow a few safety tips.

If you’re winter camping in your RV or an unexpected cold snap hits where you’re at, you want to stay warm. There’s nothing worse than living in a few hundred square feet and be miserably cold. While most RV’s furnaces do a good job of keeping cold temperatures at bay, sometimes you’ll want to supplement their heat or maybe just get some focused heat in a certain area. A propane heater can be a good solution.

Choosing a propane heater

Look, there are hundreds of propane heaters on the market. The Little Buddy is one favored by RVers, puts our 3,800 BTUs of heat and is intended for rooms up to 95 square feet. It’s a good option for a bedroom in your RV.

Mr. Heater makes other models that are appropriate for larger areas, such as the MH9BX model which gives out 4,000 to 9,000 BTU and heats up to 225 square feet. Mr. Heater’s Big Buddy propane heater gives out 4,000, 9,000, or 18,000 BTUs and heats up to 400 square feet.

Use a heater with a tip-over safety switch

First, make sure that the propane heater is specifically designed for indoor use. A low-oxygen sensor, thermostat, and automatic shut-off are critical, must-have features to look for.

Put the heater in a safe place

When setting up your heater, make sure its heating element is pointed away from the wall, furniture, or other flammable surfaces. Make sure pets and children will not be able to access the heater and keep it out of foot traffic in your RV. Make sure to not store extra propane cylinders near the heater when it is in use.

Open a window

Before using a propane heater, be sure that your RV has adequate ventilation. This is critical as all propane heaters exhaust some carbon monoxide, an invisible, odorless gas that is quite poisonous. That’s doesn’t mean you can’t use propane heaters — just be sure that there’s a way to vent that gas out of your RV.

High levels of carbon monoxide can certainly be fatal. Even lower levels can cause problems for those with asthma, sensitivity to airborne allergens, or breathing problems. Early signs of carbon monoxide poisoning include flu-like symptoms such as a headache, dizziness, and nausea. If you’re feeling any of these or suspect the heater is not working properly, get some fresh air immediately and adjust your ventilation.

Get a carbon monoxide detector

All modern RVs come with these (and if it’s not hardwired into electric, check the batteries every three months), but if you’re using a propane heater, it’s a good idea to get a second one with a digital display like this one from First Alert.

Check for gas leaks
Whenever you connect your propane heater to its fuel supply, check the connections, hoses, and other fittings for damage or potential gas leaks. If you smell gas, apply soapy water to connections and look for bubbling, indicating a leak or seepage.

With some planning and care, a portable propane heater can add extra, occasional warmth to your RV interior. Just follow these precautions.

There’s nothing worse than not being able to hook-up to electric service at an RV park or state or national park. Here’s how to be prepared.

Many RVs have onboard generators. Still, others have solar panels on top or owners use portable panels to capture electricity from the sun. And some RVers — most travel trailer owners — have a portable generator — or two — to help them overnight when there’s no electric available. Here’s a good overview of what you should have in your RV Electric Kit.

Troubles getting connected

After RVing all over the U.S. for 14 years and enduring horrid, old, and broken down roadside RV parks, we finally joined Harvest Hosts this past summer. We couldn’t be happier. For the (now) $79 annual fee, you gain access to a network of hundreds of farms, wineries, breweries, museums, and other places that offer free overnight stays for RVers, only asking that you patronize their business as a “thank you.”

We’ve been to some great places just this fall (look for our reviews soon), much better than those skanky old off-the-highway RV parks. The only issue is having enough electricity to stay more than one night (or two). Sure, some places offer (or you can ask) for an electric hook-up, but often times it’s a 15- or 20-amp connection with a long extension cord. That’s okay to keep the batteries charged, some basic appliances used, and to top off our phone and iPad batteries.

And how many times have you been to an RV park or state or federal park where only 20- or 30-amp service was available? If you didn’t have adequate heavy duty extension cords, electrical adapters, and even a surge protector, you could be in real trouble — pretty much boondocking unexpectedly!

Surge protector

Let’s start with a “must do.” Your RV’s electrical system is, in many ways, much more fragile than the one at your home. Especially considering how the RV parks and government properties you stay at may have been built years ago when electrical standards were not what they are today, local building codes aren’t consistent from locale to locale, and some of the electrical services may have degraded over time or even put in incorrectly from the start.

To protect your RV’s electrical components — especially sensitive systems like computers, stereos/radios, and TVs, you need a surge protector. We’re fans of the more-is-always good theory, so two very highly-reviewed models include the Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X (for 30 amp needs) and Progressive Industries EMS-PT50X (50 amp protection). It’s ideal to get a protector that can be locked onto the electrical post to prevent theft.

Extension cords

If you need to access electric far from your RV, forget that stuff you can buy at Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, and other hardware or building supply store. You want RV-grade, heavy duty extension cords. Lighter duty extension cords will overheat and potentially catch on fire — not a situation you want with your RV.

Some of the best extension cords we know of come from Lavotla. They have a great 30-amp, 50-foot model (also comes in 25 feet). There’s the Vetomile 30′ 50-amp extension cord, and for truly gigantic cord fans, the Mophorm 50′, 50-am cord. A bit pricey, but they are weatherproof and should last for decades with proper care.

Adapters

A smart RVers always keeps a good collection of adapters handy to meet any needed situation. We keep two of each, as we’ve been prone to forget one or two as we set them on the top of the electric post at the RV park while we’re packing up, then drive away without a second thought.

Your RV Electrical Kit is going to need a few items:
• 15-amp to 30-amp plug
• 30-amp to 50-amp plug (don’t go 15 to 30 to 50, please!)

With a little bit of planning, you can be ready for almost any electrical situation. What’s in your RV Electrical Kit? Share your comments and ideas in the comments below.

New RV owners and experienced drivers alike may need a primer when it comes to driving their RV in snow.

Rarely do we RV owners chose to drive in snow. If it happens, it’s likely that we’re leaving one place (that is cold, snowing, or snowy) to go to someplace warmer and more hospitable. There’s no denying that driving a multi-ton RV can be a white-knuckle experience for just about everyone.

Snow tires

More for your tow vehicle, snow tires will give you extra traction and the ability to drive in heavy snow. They aren’t much good on ice-covered roads. In fact, in that situation, there is very little to do other than stop and wait for the temperatures to rise and the roads to thaw out.

Snow chains

Driving your travel trailer, fifth wheel, or motorhome can be difficult — if not impossible — if you get stuck on a road covered with snow or ice. One option is to purchase a set of snow chains. You’ll want these for all of the wheels, unless you’re towing an RV and have snow tires on your tow vehicle.

Drive safely

Towing an RV is a completely different situation from just driving your truck. You know from driving school that winter driving necessitates slower-than-normal speeds, extra stopping distance, and an abundance of caution. Be sure to familiarize yourself with how your tow vehicle — and RV — handle on snow- and ice-covered roads.

If you have an exhaust brake or tow mode for your diesel-powered RV, consider shutting this off. Otherwise, the back-end of your RV could swerve as power is applied with the brake, putting you in a ditch — or worse.

Extra precautions

Make sure that your motorhome or tow vehicle has a full tank of gas. You may get stranded on a snow-covered road (or in a ditch!) and need to run your vehicle until you get towed out. Plus, you’ll likely be driving slower, which can affect your gas mileage.

Use your low beam headlights as high beams will reflect off of snow and can make visibility almost non-existent in a blizzard or heavy snow storm. If you need to, use your hazard lights to give further warning to vehicles around you.

Adequate emergency supplies in your vehicle are critical. It’s a good idea to stock up on blankets, food, water, medical supplies, and even cold weather clothing if you are traveling in the snow or cold conditions. Always try to be prepared for the possible.

Accelerating, braking, and steering at a slow and steady pace will minimize skidding and make your travels safer for you and other vehicles around you.

Finally, if things get too bad — and don’t wait for that to happen — pull off and let the storm pass, the weather to warm up, and snowplows to do their job. You have an RV, a rolling home. Make sure you use it in emergency situations and think of the safety of yourself, your passengers, and other drivers.